WEEK 9 - Christmas Granny Afghan CAL - Joining & Border

We made it! It's the last and final week of the Christmas Granny Afghan crochet along! Having so many join along on this project was pretty surreal for me. This is something I never did before and now I can't wait to do more crochet along projects!  It's so fun to see everyone's variations. Huge thank you to everyone in my Facebook group for being so kind, encouraging, supporting, and overall an amazing group of crochet friends! 

This last week we will be putting all the pieces together. We will be joining the squares and adding a border. You can join your squares how ever you feel comfortable joining them if you are experienced with joining granny squares.  

I have chosen to join my squares by single crocheting them together with the Linen colored yarn.  Instead of doing a traditional single crochet join, I do mine a bit different. I don't go through all loops when making the single crochet, I only insert my hook through the outer loops of the squares I'm joining . You can find the full photo tutorial plus video on how I joined them here.

As far as the layout, you may organize the squares how ever you prefer. I have made a small chart below of how I laid out my squares. You can see the picture below the chart of how I laid out the characters. 

For the border, I made a candy cane striped border with cranberry and white. You can find the full tutorial for that here.

Crochet Candy Cane Stripe Border - Crochet Photo & Video Tutorial

The Candy Cane Stripe Border is a fun festive border for your crochet projects! The first thing that comes into my mind is that this would make a fun border for a Holiday themed project, but you can change up the colors and use it for any project.

Below I will have some photos to guide you through the striped border. There is also a video tutorial at the end of the post.

Notes:

For the striped border, do not crochet the chains too loosely. If you tend to crochet very loose, you may want to drop a hook size.

The striped border will involve going back and forth between the white and cranberry yarn, because of this the yarn may get very tangled. Make sure to untangle every so often.

When making single crochets, make sure the color you are working with goes in front of the other colored chain.

For the striped border you will need two different colors. In the photo tutorial I am using white and cranberry worsted weight yarns with an I hook.

Before you begin the striping border, it may be favorable to single crochet all around your project beforehand.

Step 1: Starting anywhere along the border, attach white yarn and chain up 4. (Photo 1)

Step 2: Attach cranberry color yarn in the next space and chain up 4. (Photo 2)

Step 3: Go back to the white yarn and single crochet into the next space after the cranberry, chain up 4. (Photo 3)

Step 4: Go back to the cranberry yarn, single crochet into the next space after the white, chain up 4. (Photo 4)
Continue to repeat steps 3 and 4, do this all the way around the perimeter of the afghan.
*You will make 4 stitches in each corner (2 white and 2 cranberry)*

To finish - slip stitch the white yarn underneath the first chain 4 in white, fasten off. (Photo 5)

Slip stitch with the cranberry yarn underneatht the first chain 4 in cranberry, fasten off. Weave in ends. (Photo 6)

How to Join Granny Squares - Single Crochet Method

Below you will find a photo tutorial as well as a video tutorial on how to join granny squares.

There are various ways of joining granny squares together and I have done a lot of techniques and methods.  There are methods that involve actually crocheting the pieces together and many methods of sewing them together with a needle and yarn.

My preferred method is crocheting the pieces together as I don't have to guess how much yarn I will need to sew up x amount of squares. With crocheting the squares together, I will simply work from the ball of yarn I have and snip the yarn when I'm done joining a particular row of squares. No guess work there.

The method I'm going to show you is a bit of a mix between the single crochet method and invisible seam method. The invisible seam method actually involves a yarn needle to complete, but I thought I could combine the single crochet method to make it easier.

This method makes a ridge along the backside of the squares, but the front of the squares lay very flat and gives it a nice clean look.

To join the squares, use the hook size you used for making the granny squares. If you tend to crochet very loose, you may want to go down a hook size to join.

Step 1: Hold two squares together the wrong facing out and the right sides facing each other.

Step 2: Find the corner chain closest to the side you want to work on first.

Step 3: Insert your hook through the chain on each of the squares. Attach yarn, chain up 1, and single crochet into the same space

Step 4: Single crochet into outer loops only - continue this all the way across. (This picture may be confusing as both squares are red and previous photos I have one red and one white.)

Continue to pick up pairs of squares and join them together, you do no have to fasten off until you finished a whole row of squares you would like to join together. 

Meet the Maker with Taralah of YokieB

Here on the blog today, I have very first interview with a maker. You may know her from Instagram and love her as much as I do - the sweet Taralah from YokieB.  She's such a sweet soul and I love following her and seeing her inspirational work on Instagram.

Taralah designs beautiful crochet patterns & crochet items to sell, jewelry, and accessories.  She runs an Etsy shop where she sells her unique items and has a gorgeous instagram feed that you need to follow.

You can find Taralah's instagram here and her creations on her Etsy shop here. Check them out - you won't be disappointed!

I was thrilled when she agreed to do a small interview with me where she talks about her small business and also gives encouraging words to others aspiring to become makers!

Read on for Taralah's interview.

How did you come up with the name of your shop? 

I originally wanted to name the shop “Coco Bean” after our two kitties.  Of course, that wasn’t the best option for having your shop pop up first in online search results. ;) My husband suggested we use their nicknames instead, (we love a good nickname) and boom, yokieB was born!  I thought that using just one uppercase letter was visually appealing, so that’s the reason for that! :)

What inspired you to open a shop on Etsy and sell your handmade items?

I worked in visual merchandising for over 10 years.  Although it was a great creative outlet, there was a whole lot of corporate not-so-fun aspects as well.  Every time I would go on Etsy and view other artist’s amazing work, the desire to create my own handmade items to sell grew stronger and stronger.  In 2012 my husband and I took a huge leap of faith, I quit my full-time job, and I started my Etsy shop!

Is selling your handmade items your main gig or is it a side hustle? 

Being a wife and mommy is my main gig, and I love being able to have a creative business on the side.

How do you make time to manage your small business?

It can definitely be hard to manage my time with a toddler.  I used to be one of those people that just liked to plow through and not stop till things were done, but I’ve learned to do tasks a little bit at a time now.  It can still be hard to follow that routine, but I find that it works best for me in this season.  I do most of my making during nap time and after my daughter has gone to bed.

What is your favorite thing about being a maker?

I love designing new things the most!  It’s so much fun to see something that’s in your head come to life through yarn and hook!

What is your greatest challenge in running a handmade business?

I think pricing can be a big challenge.  You want to make sure you are taking every little thing into consideration when coming up with the right price, and that you are paying yourself fairly, but you also don’t want to turn people away with prices that are too high…It’s a delicate balance.

What would you tell someone who is thinking about selling their handmade items? Do you have any tips or do's & don'ts? 

I would say that’s awesome! :) Also, don’t rush it.  Take the time to do research and think about what you want your business to look like.

I was so eager to get something listed in the shop when I first started, and I didn’t take enough time to think about the overall look and feel of the shop.  I have made a lot of changes since opening the shop 5 years ago.  Some things will change with time, and you will continuously want to tweak details to make them better as you learn new strategies, but it is such a great feeling when you are confident in the product you are selling and the way that it’s presented.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions and get advice from other makers.  One of the many things I love about this maker community is the incredible support and kindness they show!

And lastly, I would say not to get discouraged if it takes a little bit of time for your first sale (if you are opening an online shop).  It took me about 3 months to get my first sale on Etsy that was not from a family member or friend ;).  Those sales, of course count too and are awesome, but it's really neat and rewarding to have a sale from someone you don't even know! ;)

Heartland Cardy Cardigan Crochet Pattern (Large/XLarge sizes)

Here you will find the pattern for the Heartland Cardy in sizes Large & XLarge.
For the main page of the Heartland Cardy post and for sizes Small & Medium click here.

Materials
J hook 6.0mm
Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in 180 Kings Canyon (251 yards per skein)
Tapestry needle & Scissors

Sizing Notes

Model (me) is super short (4’10”) so for my personal cardigan, I made a medium but made mine 3 rows shorter. You can easily adjust the length by adding or taking away rows in multiples of three for the back panel and both front panels. Everything else in the pattern will stay the same. Adding/taking away 3 rows will add/take away about 2 inches.

Small 32”-34” bust - 3 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland
Medium 36”-38” bust - 4 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland
Large 40”-42” bust - 4 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland
XL 44”-46” bust - 4 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland

I think the sizes run small, if you are on the fence about what size to pick or would rather a bit more of a lose fit - go a size up.

Pattern Notes

Written in US terms

Ch 3 in the beginning rounds count as a stitch. Since the Ch 3 DOES count as a stitch, when making the next stitch, you will not be working into that same ch 3 space rather the next space (unless otherwise stated)

I tend to crochet loosely. Please please check your gauge so your cardigan will not turn out too small.

Abbreviations
DC = double crochet, HDC = half double crochet, Ch = chain, St = stitch(es), FPDC = front post double crochet, BPDC = back post double crochet, DC2tog = double crochet 2 together (AKA decrease)

Gauge: 4” x 4” = 12 stitches x 7 rows in DC

You can find the general construction here on the main post of the Heartland Cardy.


LARGE SIZE

Back Panel

Row 1: Chain 63, DC in 4th ch from hook, DC in next 5 st, [ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, *DC in next 6 st, [ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, turn

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as DC and ch 1), DC in next DC (skipping the ch 1 space), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 2 times, DC in next 6 stitches, *[ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, DC in next 6 st, repeat from * across, turn

Row 3: Ch 3, *DC in next 6 st, [Ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, work last DC into the 3rd ch up of the ch 4, turn

Row 4: Ch 3, *DC in next 6 st (working in the ch. 1 space and DC from previous row), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across

Repeat Rows 2-4 until you have a total of 39 rows, do not fasten off

Row 40: Ch 1 (does not count as stitch) SC in same space as chain and across, turn (61)

Do not fasten off

Front Panel

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 24 st, turn
Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (25)
Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (25)
Row 4: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (26)
Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (26)
Row 6: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (27)
Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (27)
Row 8: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (28)
Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)
Row 10: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (29)
Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (29)
Row 12: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (30)
Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (30)
Row 14: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (31)
Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (31)
Row 16-39: Ch 3, DC across, turn (31)
Fasten off

Second panel

Attach yarn 12 spaces away from the first panel. You will have 11 stitches between both panels.

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 24 st, turn
Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (25)
Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (25)
Row 4: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (26)
Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (26)
Row 6: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (27)
Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (27)
Row 8: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (28)
Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)
Row 10: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (29)
Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (29)
Row 12: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (30)
Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (30)
Row 14: Ch 3, Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (31)
Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (31)
Row 16-39: Ch 3, DC across, turn (31)
Fasten off

Sew front panels to back panel together by whip stitching up the sides. Leave 12 rows for arm holes.
**Turn inside out. Once you have turned inside out, this will be the ‘right side’ of your cardigan.

Sleeves:

Attach yarn in ‘armpit’ of the hole left from sewing up the sides.
*The stitch count for the first round around the armhole may be off by 1 (more or less) stitch without affecting the rest of the sleeve*
If your stitch count is off, each time you decrease in a row, you should have two less than the last row.

Round 1: Ch 3, DC around hole (I made 2DC per DC/Ch 3 space around the hole), join to Ch 3 (48 st)
Round 2: Ch 3, DC around, join to Ch 3 (48 st)
Round 3: Ch 3, DC2tog, DC until last 2 st, DC2tog, join to Ch 3. (46)
Round 4: Repeat Round 2 (46)
Round 5: Repeat Round 3 (44)
Round 6: Repeat Round 2 (44)
Round 7: Repeat Round 3 (42)
Round 8: Repeat Round 2 (42)
Round 9: Repeat Round 3 (40)
Round 10: Repeat Round 2 (40)
Round 11: Repeat Round 3 (38)
Round 12: Repeat Round 2 (38)
Round 13: Repeat Round 3 (36)
Round 14 - 17: Repeat Round 2 (36)
*Skip to Round 29 for ¾ sleeves
Round 18-32: Repeat Round 2 (36)
Round 33: Ch 3, alternate FPDC & BPDC, join to ch 3
Round 34: Repeat Round 33
Fasten off


Bottom Edging

Attach yarn to bottom edge/bottom right panel
Ch 3, DC across, turn
Ch 3, *FPDC, BPDC, repeat across, end with DC in Ch 3
Fasten off

Panel Edging

Attach yarn to bottom left panel

Ch 2 (counts as HDC), HDC up the panel, around the neck space, and down the other panel (I made 2HDC in each DC/Ch 3 space), turn
Repeat until you have 4 rows total, fasten off


Weave in all ends

XLARGE SIZE

Back Panel

Row 1: Chain 69, DC in 4th ch from hook, DC in next 5 st, *[ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, DC in next 6 st, repeat from * across, turn

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 6 st, *(Ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next ch) 3 times, DC in next 6 st, repeat from * across, turn

Row 3: Repeat Row 2

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as DC and ch 1), DC in next DC (skipping the ch 1 space), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 2 times, *DC in next 6 stitches (DC into the ch. 1 spaces and DC from previous row), [ch. 1, skip 1 DC, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, turn

Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as DC and ch 1), DC in next DC (skipping the ch 1 space), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 2 times, *DC in next 6 stitches, [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, turn

Row 6: Repeat Row 5

Row 7: Repeat Row 2 (the DC in 6 st across will be in ch.1 spaces and DC from previous row)

Repeat Rows 2-7 until you have a total of 37 rows 

Rows 38-39: Repeat Row 2-3

Row 40: Ch 1 (does not count as stitch) SC in same space as chain and across, turn (67)

Do not fasten off

Front Panel

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 27 st, turn

Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)

Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)

Row 4: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (29)

Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (29)

Row 6: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (30)

Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (30)

Row 8: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (31)

Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (31)

Row 10: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (32)

Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (32)

Row 12: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (33)

Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (33)

Row 14: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (34)

Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (34)

Row 16-39: Ch 3, DC across, turn (34)

Fasten off

Second panel

Attach yarn 12 spaces away from the first panel. You will have 11 stitches between both panels.

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 27 st, turn

Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)

Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)

Row 4: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (29)

Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (29)

Row 6: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (30)

Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (30)

Row 8: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (31)

Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (31)

Row 10: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (32)

Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (32)

Row 12: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (33)

Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (33)

Row 14: Ch 3, Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (34)

Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (34)

Row 16-39: Ch 3, DC across, turn (34)

Fasten off

Sew front panels to back panel together by whip stitching up the sides. Leave 13 rows for arm holes.

**Turn inside out. Once you have turned inside out, this will be the ‘right side’ of your cardigan.

Sleeves:

Attach yarn in ‘armpit’ of the hole left from sewing up the sides.

*The stitch count for the first round around the armhole may be off by 1 (more or less) stitch without affecting the rest of the sleeve* 

If your stitch count is off, each time you decrease in a row, you should have two less than the last row.

Round 1: Ch 3, DC around hole (I made 2DC per DC/Ch 3 space around the hole), join to Ch 3 (52 st)

Round 2: Ch 3, DC around, join to Ch 3 (52 st)

Round 3: Ch 3, DC2tog , DC until last 2 st, DC2tog, join to Ch 3. (50)

Round 4: Repeat Round 2 (50)

Round 5: Repeat Round 3 (48)

Round 6: Repeat Round 2 (48)

Round 7: Repeat Round 3 (46)

Round 8: Repeat Round 2 (46)

Round 9: Repeat Round 3 (44)

Round 10: Repeat Round 2 (44)

Round 11: Repeat Round 3 (42)

Round 12: Repeat Round 2 (42)

Round 13: Repeat Round 3 (40)

Round 14 - 17: Repeat Round 2 (40)

*Skip to Round 30 for ¾ sleeves

Round 18-31: Repeat Round 2 (40)

Round 32: Ch 3, alternate FPDC & BPDC, join to ch 3

Round 33: Repeat Round 32

Fasten off

Bottom Edging

Attach yarn to bottom edge/bottom right panel

Ch 3, DC across, turn

Ch 3, *FPDC, BPDC, repeat across, end with DC in Ch 3

Fasten off

Panel Edging

Attach yarn to bottom left panel

Ch 2 (counts as HDC), HDC up the panel, around the neck space, and down the other panel (I made 2HDC in each DC/Ch 3 space), turn

Repeat until you have 4 rows total, fasten off

Weave in all ends

Heartland Cardy Cardigan Crochet Pattern (Small/Medium Sizes)

Let me start off by saying, I never thought I would be able to crochet (let alone design) something to add to my wardrobe.  Now that I've made and designed my first ever cardigan - I'm already working on the next one! Once I figured out the basic construction and sizing of a cardigan, it was pretty smooth sailing from there.

My first attempt at a cardigan was awful and my biggest mistake was not leaving a few extra inches to my measurements. This made things just a bit skin tight and discouraging as I couldn't figure out why my measurements were 'wrong'.  At that point, I back tracked to a more simple style of top - a shrug. It was basically making a rectangle and sewing up the sides leaving some holes for arms. You can find that free pattern here.

Once I did more research and realized what I was doing wrong with the measurements, I did more research about some construction so I would surely get it right this time. Armed with knowledge, I dived into designing.

I  knew I wanted something simple yet detailed. Just enough detail to make it seem like my wardrobe is pulled together (and it's totally not - T-shirts and leggings are my jam). So it's safe to say, if I need to look a little pulled together - this is going to be my cardigan of choice to do so.

I flipped through one of my stitch dictionaries to see what I could use to spruce up a basic cardigan. When I saw this checkered filet look I knew it would make the perfect back panel for this cardigan. I think it adds just enough detail and it's really easy to do! Just double crochets and chains.

The front panels and sleeves are just as easy. Just double crochets - plus some increases and decreases here and there for a tapered look on the top front and for fitted sleeves.

And let's talk about those sleeves. Anyone else a fan of 3/4 sleeves? With my long sleeve tops and sweaters, I'm constantly pulling the sleeves up to do dishes, pull clothes out of the laundry, assisting with the potty, cleaning up unknown substances off the floor, you know - the usual mom stuff.

With the 3/4 sleeves I can do all of those mom things comfortably without sleeves getting in the way. If you prefer long sleeves, don't worry - there are instructions in the pattern to do so!

Before beginning this cardigan, please read over the general construction notes as well as the pattern notes! Sizes Large and XLarge will be found on a separate post at the link at the very bottom of this post.

Want to make it later?

Save it to your Ravelry for safe keeping, or pin it to your Pinterest boards!

You can also purchase the ad-free downloadable to print on Ravelry.

Materials
J hook 6.0mm
Lion Brand Heartland Yarn in 180 Kings Canyon (251 yards per skein)
Tapestry needle & Scissors

Sizing Notes

Model (me) is super short (4’10”) so for my personal cardigan, I made a medium but made mine 3 rows shorter. You can easily adjust the length by adding or taking away rows in multiples of three for the back panel and both front panels. Everything else in the pattern will stay the same. Adding/taking away 3 rows will add/take away about 2 inches.

Small 32”-34” bust - 3 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland
Medium 36”-38” bust - 4 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland
Large 40”-42” bust - 4 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland
XL 44”-46” bust - 4 skeins in Lion Brand Heartland

I think the sizes run small, if you are on the fence about what size to pick or would rather a bit more of a loose fit - go a size up.

Pattern Notes

Written in US terms

Ch 3 in the beginning rounds count as a stitch. Since the Ch 3 DOES count as a stitch, when making the next stitch, you will not be working into that same ch 3 space rather the next space (unless otherwise stated)

I tend to crochet loosely. Please please check your gauge so your cardigan will not turn out too small.

Abbreviations
DC = double crochet, HDC = half double crochet, Ch = chain, St = stitch(es), FPDC = front post double crochet, BPDC = back post double crochet, DC2tog = double crochet 2 together (AKA decrease)

Gauge: 4” x 4” = 12 stitches x 7 rows in DC

General Construction Notes

The cardigan will start with making the back panel and continuing onto the back panel to make the first front panel.  Yarn will be attached as indicated in pattern for the second panel.

Once back panel and front panels are made, the front panels will be folded down onto the back panel.  Using the whip stitch, the front panel will be seamed together with the back panel leaving holes for sleeves.

Sleeves will be made around the holes left from seaming up the sides.  Edging will be completed last around the panels and then on the bottom.

SIZE SMALL

Back Panel

Row 1: Chain 51, DC in 4th ch from hook, DC in next 5 st, [ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, *DC in next 6 st, [ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, turn

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as DC and ch 1), DC in next DC (skipping the ch 1 space), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 2 times, DC in next 6 stitches, *[ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, DC in next 6 st, repeat from * across, turn

Row 3: Ch 3, *DC in next 6 st, [Ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, work last DC into the 3rd ch up of the ch 4, turn

Row 4: Ch 3, *DC in next 6 st (working in the ch. 1 space and DC from previous row), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across

Repeat Rows 2-4 until you have a total of 36 rows, do not fasten off
Row 37: Ch 1 (does not count as stitch) SC in same space as chain and across, turn (49)

Do not fasten off

Front Panel

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 17 st, turn
Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (18)
Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (18)
Row 4: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (19)
Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (19)
Row 6: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (20)
Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (20)
Row 8: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (21)
Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (21)
Row 10: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (22)
Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (22)
Row 12: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (23)
Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (23)
Row 14: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (24)
Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (24)
Row 16-36: Ch 3, DC across, turn (24)     19
Fasten off

Second panel

Attach yarn 12 spaces away from the first panel. You will have 11 stitches between the panels.

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 17 st, turn
Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (18)
Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (18)
Row 4: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (19)
Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (19)
Row 6: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (20)
Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (20)
Row 8: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (21)
Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (21)
Row 10: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (22)
Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (22)
Row 12: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (23)
Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (23)
Row 14: Ch 3, Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (24)
Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (24)
Row 16-36: Ch 3, DC across, turn (24)
Fasten off

Sew front panels to back panel together by whip stitching up the sides. Leave 10 rows for arm holes.
**Turn inside out. Once you have turned inside out, this will be the ‘right side’ of your cardigan.

Sleeves:

Attach yarn in ‘armpit’ of the hole left from sewing up the sides.
*The stitch count for the first round around the armhole may be off by 1 stitch (less or more) without affecting the rest of the sleeve*
If your stitch count is off, each time you decrease in a row, you should have two less than the last row.

Round 1: Ch 3, DC around hole (I made 2DC per DC/Ch 3 space around the hole), join to Ch 3 (40 st)
Round 2: Ch 3, DC around, join to Ch 3 (40 st)
Round 3: Ch 3, DC2tog, DC until last 2 st, DC2tog, join to Ch 3. (38)
Round 4: Repeat Round 2 (38)
Round 5: Repeat Round 3 (36)
Round 6: Repeat Round 2 (36)
Round 7: Repeat Round 3 (34)
Round 8: Repeat Round 2 (34)
Round 9: Repeat Round 3 (32)
Round 10: Repeat Round 2 (32)
Round 11: Repeat Round 3 (30)
Round 12: Repeat Round 2 (30)
Round 13: Repeat Round 3 (28)
Round 14 - 17: Repeat Round 2 (28)
*Skip to Round 32 for ¾ sleeves
Round 18-31: Repeat Round 2 (28)
Round 32: Ch 3, alternate FPDC & BPDC, join to ch 3
Round 33: Repeat Round 32
Fasten off


Bottom Edging

Attach yarn to bottom edge of cardigan/bottom edge of right panel
Ch 3, DC across, turn
Ch 3, *FPDC, BPDC, repeat across, end with DC in Ch 3
Fasten off

Panel Edging

Attach yarn to bottom left panel

Ch 2 (counts as HDC), HDC up panel, around neck space, and back down the other panel (I made 2HDC in each DC/Ch 3 space), turn
Repeat until you have 4 rows total, fasten off


Weave in all ends


SIZE MEDIUM

Back Panel

Row 1: Chain 57, DC in 4th ch from hook, DC in next 5 st, *[ch 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, DC in next 6 st, repeat from * across, turn

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 6 st, *(Ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st) 3 times, DC in next 6 st, repeat from * across, turn

Row 3: Repeat Row 2

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as DC and ch 1), sk 1, DC in next st, [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 2 times, *DC in next 6 stitches (DC into the ch. 1 spaces and DC from previous row), [ch. 1, skip 1 DC, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, turn

Row 5: Ch 4 (counts as DC and ch 1), DC in next DC (skipping the ch 1 space), [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 2 times, *DC in next 6 stitches, [ch. 1, skip 1, DC in next st] 3 times, repeat from * across, turn

Row 6: Repeat Row 5

Row 7: Repeat Row 2 (the DC in 6 st across will be in ch.1 spaces and DC from previous row)

Repeat Rows 2-7 until you have a total of 31 rows
Row 32-36: Repeat Row 2-6
Row 37:Ch 1 (does not count as stitch) SC in same space as chain and across, turn (55)

Do not fasten off

Front Panel

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 21 st, turn
Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (22)
Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (22)
Row 4: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (23)
Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (23)
Row 6: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (24)
Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (24)
Row 8: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (25)
Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (25)
Row 10: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (26)
Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (26)
Row 12: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (27)
Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (27)
Row 14: Ch 3, DC in same st and across, turn (28)
Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)
Row 16-36: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)
Fasten off

Second panel

Attach yarn 12 spaces to the right of first panel. You will have 11 stitches between both panels.

Row 1: Ch 3, DC in next 21 st, turn
Row 2: Ch 3, DC across, turn (22)
Row 3: Ch 3, DC across, turn (22)
Row 4: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (23)
Row 5: Ch 3, DC across, turn (23)
Row 6: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (24)
Row 7: Ch 3, DC across, turn (24)
Row 8: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (25)
Row 9: Ch 3, DC across, turn (25)
Row 10: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (26)
Row 11: Ch 3, DC across, turn (26)
Row 12: Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (27)
Row 13: Ch 3, DC across, turn (27)
Row 14: Ch 3, Ch 3, DC across, making 2 DC in last stitch, turn (28)
Row 15: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)
Row 16-36: Ch 3, DC across, turn (28)
Fasten off

Sew front panels to back panel together by whip stitching up the sides. Leave 10 rows for arm holes.
**Turn inside out. Once you have turned inside out, this will be the ‘right side’ of your cardigan.

Sleeves:

Attach yarn in ‘armpit’ of the hole left from sewing up the sides.
*The stitch count for the first round around the armhole may be off by 1 (more of less) stitch without affecting the rest of the sleeve*
If your stitch count is off, each time you decrease in a row, you should have two less than the last row.

Round 1: Ch 3, DC around hole (I made 2DC per DC/Ch 3 space around the hole), join to Ch 3 (40 st)
Round 2: Ch 3, DC around, join to Ch 3 (40 st)
Round 3: Ch 3, DC2tog, DC until last 2 st, DC2tog, join to Ch 3. (38)
Round 4: Repeat Round 2 (38)
Round 5: Repeat Round 3 (36)
Round 6: Repeat Round 2 (36)
Round 7: Repeat Round 3 (34)
Round 8: Repeat Round 2 (34)
Round 9: Repeat Round 3 (32)
Round 10: Repeat Round 2 (32)
Round 11: Repeat Round 3 (30)
Round 12: Repeat Round 2 (30)
Round 13: Repeat Round 3 (28)
Round 14 - 17: Repeat Round 2 (28)
*Skip to Round 29 for ¾ sleeves
Round 18-31: Repeat Round 2 (28)
Round 32: Ch 3, alternate FPDC & BPDC, join to ch 3
Round 33: Repeat Round 32
Fasten off


Bottom Edging

Attach yarn to bottom edge/bottom right panel
Ch 3, DC across, turn
Ch 3, *FPDC, BPDC, repeat across, end with DC in Ch 3
Fasten off

Panel Edging

Attach yarn to bottom left panel

Ch 2 (counts as HDC), HDC up the panel, around the neck space, and down the other panel (I made 2HDC in each DC/Ch 3 space), turn
Repeat until you have 4 rows total, fasten off

Weave in all ends

CLICK HERE FOR SIZES LARGE/XLARGE

WEEK 8 - Christmas Granny Afghan CAL - Wreath Applique Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome to Week 8 of the CAL!

This week will be the last week we will be making squares and appliques! Next week will be all about joining the squares and making the border. This has been such a rewarding experience to get to see crocheters get together and make something memorable.

The wreath applique is fairly simple, but from what I've seen in the Facebook group - I know some of you will spruce it up and I can't wait to see all the creativity!

I know many of you are wondering when and if there will be a next crochet along and I can say I'm in the planning stages! I'm bouncing ideas back and forth and figuring out when and how long it will take place. I will be asking in the Facebook group for thoughts/suggestions - if you aren't a part of the yarn friends community yet you can join here.

This week we will be working up 8 granny squares along with the Wreath Applique.
All the patterns and video tutorials that you will need are below.

If you would like to purchase the complete pattern, you may do so here on Ravelry.

If you need to go back to the main page of the CAL - click here.

If you need to take another look at the materials list - click here.

Week 8
Make 4 granny squares in Linen
Make 4 granny squares in Fern
Make 4 wreath appliques
Weave in all ends!
& most importantly, pat yourself on the back for completing ALL the squares and appliques!!

Find the GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN HERE.

Materials

Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in:
Scarlet, Fern
G/4.00mm hook
Scissors and tapestry needle

Pattern Notes

Chain in the beginning of each round does not count as stitch.

Pattern

Starting with Fern

Round 1: Chain 15, join to first chain (careful not to twist chain) to form a loop
Round 2: Chain 1, SC around, join to first SC (15)
Round 3: Chain 1, 2SC into each stitch around (30)
Round 4: Chain 1, *2SC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around (40)
Round 5: Chain 2, *3DC into same space, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch, skip 1 stitch, repeat from * around ending with slip stitch into first space where the 1st set of 3DC is
Fasten off and leave tail for sewing

Bow - Using Scarlet

Chain 35, fasten off. Leave tail for sewing onto wreath.
Tie into a bow (similar to the second step of tying shoe laces together)

Sew bow onto wreath

Video Tutorial

You may need to disable your ad-blocker if you are not able to access the video tutorial below. Or you may view the video here on YouTube.

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WEEK 7 - Christmas Granny Afghan CAL - Elf Applique Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome to Week 7 of the CAL!

Where has the time gone?! Can you believe we have been at this for a month and a half?

We are nearly finished! After this little guy, we have one more week to go before we start joining everything all up :)

This week we will be working up 8 granny squares and the Elf Applique.
All the patterns and video tutorials that you will need are below.

If you would like to purchase the complete pattern, you may do so here on Ravelry. You can also save it on Ravelry for later.

If you need to go back to the main page of the CAL - click here.

If you need to take another look at the materials list - click here.

Week 7
Make 4 granny squares in Linen
Make 4 granny squares in Fern
Make 4 elf appliques
Weave in all ends!

Materials

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in:
Beige, Taupe, Kelly Green, Cranberry
6mm safety eyes
G/4.0mm hook
Tapestry needle

Pattern Notes:

Chain 2/Chain 1 is not counted as a stitch in the beginning rounds/rows

Bobble stitch is worked as follows: *Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, YO, pull through two loops, repeat from * 2 more times in same space until you have 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain one to secure bobble

SC2tog - single crochet 2 together AKA decrease is worked as follows: insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all loops

Elf hat is bent down before sewn onto granny square to give the hat a slouching look

Pattern

Head - starting with Beige

Round 1: Magic ring, Chain 2, 10HDC into ring, join to first HDC
Round 2: Chain 2, 2 HDC into each stitch around, join to first HDC
Round 3: Chain 2, *2HDC, HDC, repeat from * 5 more times,
Continued from Round 3: Change to Taupe, bobble stitch in 8 remaining stitches, join to first HDC in round
Fasten off

Turn circle so the brown bobbles are on top, representing the hair of the elf.

Ears - Beige
Attach to right side of the head one space underneath bobble
Chain 1, [3SC, triple crochet] all in one space, fasten off.

Flip the head over onto the ‘wrong side’
Attach yarn one space underneath bobble on other side of head to create the left ear.
Chain 1, [3SC, triple crochet] all in one space, fasten off.

Hat - Made separetly, starting with Cranberry

Row 1: Chain 12, HDC into 3rd chain from hook and into remaining stitches, turn
Change to Kelly Green
Row 2: Chain 1, *SC, DC down into chain row, repeat from * across, turn
Row 3: Chain 1, SC2tog, SC into next 6 stitches, SC2tog, turn
Row 4: Chain 1, SC2tog, SC into next 4 stitches, SC2tog, turn
Row 5: Chain 1, SC across into next 6 stitches, turn
Row 6: Chain 1, SC2tog, SC into next 2 stitches, SC2tog, turn
Row 7: Chain 1, SC across into next 4 stitches, turn
Row 8: Chain 1, SC2tog, SC2tog, turn
Row 9: Chain 1, SC across in next 2 stitches, turn
Row 10: SC2tog, turn
Switch to Cranberry
Row 11: Chain 2, bobble stitch, fasten off
Sew onto head

Eyes

Attach safety eyes or create a french knot with black yarn and a tapestry needle.

Nose

Sew on nose with tapestry needle and beige yarn. Using a running stitch, keep overlapping the same stitch 8-10 times to create a bump.

Video Tutorial

You may need to disable your ad-blocker if you are unable to access the video below.

Or you may view the video tutorial here on YouTube.

PIN IT TO YOUR PINTEREST BOARDS!

Sharing in any way really helps my blog going and the free patterns coming - thank you!

How My Crochet Blog Started & How I Keep it Going

In the past months, I've had people reach out to me to ask about crochet blogging.  The main question I get asked - HOW do you do it? and How did you start a crochet blog?  In this post I'm going to go through how I started blogging about crochet, what it entails, and how I fit it into my every day life. And you probably also have the question - can you really make money off of blogging about crochet? So I'll go over that too. (The short answer is - yes).

From Maker to Crochet Blogger

Long story short, (I literally typed a page of jabber and deleted it - I know you want to get to the good stuff). I use to make and sell my crocheted items. After realizing it wouldn't make me a full-time income (or even a part-time income) and seeing 'how to start a blog' all over Pinterest, I just went for it. I didn't have anything to loose.

I've always hopped onto crochet blogs to find free crochet patterns, but I never thought.. are these people actually making money for doing what they love? (Or maybe they don't love it, I don't know their lives).  But once I realized you can make money blogging, I thought - Hey, I can crochet and I have tons of ideas for new patterns, so why can't I start my own crochet blog?

There are so many crocheters out there so I knew at least a few people would want to take a peek of what I had to offer.  I did a lot of my own research, talked to other bloggers, created some content, and most importantly - shared it with other crocheters who shared my love for yarn.

How I Started My Blog

I was already familiar with Blogger/Blogspot because when I was in college, I started one through my Google account and made little posts about my son and added some pictures. It didn't go anywhere and I only posted a few times - it was just a way to document and I used it like Xanga (remember Xanga? Probably not, and I'm not even 'old'.)

Since I was familiar with this platform, that is what I used to start up my blog and I'm still using it. It's free, I never had issues, and I find it easy to use. The one thing I do pay for is the domain name which I pay through blogger for only $13 a year.

It wasn't absolutely necessary to buy the domain name, but that allowed me to drop the .blogspot at the end of my web address - which I think makes it look more legit and easier to remember.

I went online to search for templates to make my site look 'cleaner' than the templates already available through Blogspot. I opted for a free one and coded in some changes to fit what I needed.  I only know a few things about coding and didn't do anything spectacular, but I was trying to spend as little as possible and take advantage of the little knowledge I had.


What Blogging Entails (For Me)

Blogging probably looks different for everyone, but I think I can speak for all bloggers when I say - it's a lot more work than you think. It's not hard labor work (obviously), but there's a lot of components in running a blog.  There's always something to be working on and it takes a lot of time.

I'm going to break down everything I do for my blog that has made it successful (and there's probably other little things that I've missed):

1. Make Content
For my blog, you already know that I crochet things and share them.  My content is (for the most part) crochet patterns, but it takes more than just crocheting.  I come up with an idea, I design it, I make a sample(s), and I write up the pattern.

Now that I have the main part of my content, I need to take photos, edit the photos, edit the pattern,  and then put it together in a blog post.

Along with that, I have been doing video tutorial for some of my patterns, which entails me finding a good time to record a video, edit & upload them.

2. Drive Traffic
If I have a bunch of content and no one knows where to find it, then my blog would be kind of pointless, right?  To make my blog 'known', I need to share my patterns/content so people go to my site!

Every time I write a post/share a pattern I do the following: share on social media, create a 'PIN' for Pinterest, format an email and email it to my subscribers, and post it on crochet pattern sites (Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrochet, etc).

I try to spread this out through the week so I can gain a bigger audience than just dump it into the cyber world and then forget about it. I will also go back to old content and share those patterns where/when I see fit.

3. Social Media
Sharing on social media is one of the best ways to get your blog out there - but if you don't have followers, then you' won't be sharing it to very many people. More followers = more people to look at your blog.

Unfortunately, social media platforms doesn't always make it easy for you to share your stuff with everyone that's following you. For example, Facebook only shares to 1% of your followers unless you pay to 'boost' your post/pay for advertising. I'm not into paying for that - so I find other ways.

The way I (try to) gain followers is to be present, be purposeful with posting, and to be engaged.  So far I have found that if someone likes your stuff consistently, they will always see your stuff in their feed. Facebook shows you the stuff they think you want to see. Makes sense, right?

Keeping up with social media can basically be a full time job.

4. Bookwork
Since I'm making money and I don't want to go to jail for not paying taxes, I have to keep up with income/expenses and all that fun stuff. I typically do this once a month, but try to keep everything organized throughout the month.

5. Customer Service
Since I'm a one woman show, all the questions/comments/inquiries come to me whether it be through email or social media.  I answer all the emails/messages I get throughout the day and try to answer them right away as most people are working on a pattern and need clarification or just have a question about the pattern in general.

6. Time Management
I think this is a good one to throw in because I'm always managing time and thinking ahead for my blog. When I listed the components of making content, it doesn't always go in that order.

I may make something, write up the pattern and write up the post but may not be able to take the photos for it until later in the week (or even weeks later).  Sometimes I have several finished projects/WIPs and no photos or patterns written up.

I typically plan ahead on what days I can take photos or what days I can have uninterrupted computer time to edit everything and write up a post.

For the most part I do what I can when I can, and that revolves around my family because they're my #1.

7. Learn/Educate
Blogging has been a learning experience/journey for me. I'm still learning ways to better my blog through articles, webinars, podcasts, etc. There's a wealth of information out there on the internet!

I'm not doing this every single day, but when there is an opportunity to learn or when I have time to improve on a skill (such as photography), I'll take some time to do so.


How I Keep Up With Blogging

I have a son who I homeschool so like I said above, I have to manage my time.  I am able to 'work' throughout the day, but that usually means the house isn't getting cleaned (and let's be honest, the house always needs cleaned even if you already cleaned it, so why bother? Haha!).  During the day I can usually get a little bit of crocheting done and do the social media aspect of blogging when my son is doing his 'school' work or when he is occupying himself with his toys.

Mostly all the computer work and some designing (the more complicated ones), I leave for nights and weekends. Bedtime is around 7-7:30pm here for us, so I can get a good 3-4 hours in of work 'after hours'.  The weekends, I can 'work' as much as I want because I can count on my boyfriend to man the house (and clean if I didn't do much of that during the week).

The weekends is usually when I do videos and photos. These are the times where I can work uninterrupted during the day, which is necessary for photos and videos. I don't have fancy lights, I use natural light.

With all that, I still manage to get family time in. It's so easy for me to get caught up in all of it, but I do take days 'off' or nights 'off'.  On those days off, I still crochet though because #crochetlife.

It's not easy managing time because one day is totally different from the next, but it makes it easier that I truly enjoy what I do. I love to create things and I love to share it.

Can you Make Money from Blogging?

The answer is yes. Are you going to make tons right away? No, and you probably won't for a while unless one of your posts goes viral or something.

There are many different ways to make money from blogging, but I'm going to share with you the main sources I get income from blogging.

1. Ads - They're everywhere and that's how a lot of publishers make some cash (TV, radio, magazines, webpages, etc).  This directly corresponds to page views.  More page views = more money.

2. Affiliates - I am an affiliate with Amazon, so if I refer you to a link to buy something on their page, I will earn a small commission from that purchase without any extra charge to the buyer. There are many many affiliate programs out there, but Amazon is a popular one because they basically sell everything.

3. Selling Crochet Patterns - Not everyone does this, but I sell PDF versions of some of my patterns on Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrochet, etc.  I don't expect people to buy them because they are free on my blog, but they are cheap & convenient to have something on hand (without ads) and believe it or not - people do buy just to support my work! I appreciate and am thankful for every sale I get.

4. Other Opportunities - I have received a handful of opportunities since I've started my blog and not all of them I was compensated directly for, but instead I may have received yarn or had a chance to get my blog 'out there' for more viewers to see. (And more viewers = more $).


Tips to New/Potential (Crochet) Bloggers

1. You should be passionate about what you do. What ever you want to blog about, be passionate about it.  It's a lot of work and some days your passion may be the only thing that drives you forward.

2. Be patient and consistent. I can almost promise you that you will have days where you feel like you are wasting your time and you are getting nowhere. As long as you keep being consistent and keep working on your blog, you will get somewhere.

3. Don't expect to earn money right off the bat. You probably won't even make any money at first and when you do start making money, it may just be pocket change for a while. My pattern sales are what kept me going in the beginning, without it I wouldn't have made squat just from blogging.

4. Don't compare yourself to others - your journey is your own. You probably will compare yourself to others at one point in your journey, but just remember everyone has that struggle of comparison and not feeling adequate at one point or another. Put your blinders on and keep doing you.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out to me! I'm more than happy to talk to you about blogging! Send me a DM on Instagram or Facebook to reach me the quickest!

Ghost Ragdoll Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Halloween is soon upon us and this cute little spooky ghost is the perfect thing to whip up! It's a ragdoll style amigurumi that I've been wanting to try out.

Unlike traditional amigurumi, this little guy is made in rows instead of rounds. Two flat shapes are made, sewn together and then stuffed with a bit of poly-fil making it 3D! I'm really happy with how it turned out for it being my first go at this style of amigurumi.

These would be perfect gifts for little ones! They're also easy and quick to make so they would be cute little class gifts as well :)

I used worsted weight yarn to make this little guy but if you would like a bigger sized ghosty, I would suggest holding two strands of yarn together and use an H hook. Perhaps even using a chunky yarn like Bernat blanket - that would make a fun squishy ghost :)

The ad-free, PDF printable can be purchased here (https://www.lovecrochet.com/catalog/product/view/id/193296). Thank you for your support! Materials: -Worsted weight yarn in white and black -G hook -Poly-fil -Tapestry needle -Scissors Dimensions/Gauge: Measures 8” from top to bottom, 8” from arm to arm 17 stitches x 18 rows in SC Abbreviations: Ch = chain SC = single crochet SC2tog = single crochet 2 together HDC = half double crochet Notes: -Chain 1 in the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch -SC increase: 2 single crochets into the same stitch -SC2tog: (AKA decrease) insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook Pattern: Row 1: Ch 11, SC in second chain from hook and across, turn (10) Row 2: Ch 1, SC increase, SC in next 8 stitches, SC increase in last stitch, turn (12) Row 3: Ch 1, SC across, turn (12) Row 4: Ch 1, SC increase, SC in next 10 stitches, SC increase in last stitch, turn (14) Row 5: Ch 1, SC across, turn (14) Row 6: Ch 1, SC increase, SC in next 12 stitches, SC increase in last stitch, turn (16) Row 7: Ch 1, SC across, turn (16) Row 8: Ch 1, SC increase, SC in next 14 stitches, SC increase in last stitch, turn (18) Row 9: Ch 1, SC across, turn (18) Row 10: Ch 1, SC increase, SC in next 18 stitches, SC increase in last stitch, turn (20) Row 11-26: Ch 1, SC across, turn (20) Row 27: Ch 1, SC in 6 stitches across, turn (6) Row 28: Ch 1, SC across, turn (6) Row 29: Ch 1, SC across, turn (6) Row 30: Ch 1, SC2tog, SC in next 2 stitches, SC2tog, turn (4) Row 31: Ch 1, SC2tog, SC2tog (2) Fasten off. This will leave you with the ghost body and one bump on the bottom. Make the next two bumps as follows: Bump#2: Attach white yarn one stitch away from the first bump. There will be one stitch in between the bumps. Ch 1, SC in 6 stitches, turn Ch 1, SC in 6 stitches, turn Ch 1, SC2tog, SC in next 2 stitches, SC2tog, turn Ch 1, SC2tog, SC2tog, fasten off Bump #3: Attach white yarn one space away from second bump. There will be one stitch in between the bumps. Ch 1, SC in 6 stitches, turn Ch 1, SC2tog, SC in next 2 stitches, SC2tog, turn Ch 1, SC2tog, SC2tog, fasten off After completing the bumps, you will have completed the ghost’s body. Make two ghost bodies - we will be sewing them together at the end. Arms - Make 4 with white yarn Row 1: Ch 5, SC in second chain from hook and across, turn (4) Row 2-8: Ch 1, SC across, turn (4) Row 9: Ch 1, SC2tog, SC2tog (2) Fasten off Eyes - Make 2 with black Make a magic ring Ch 2, HDC, 3SC, 2HDC, 3SC all in magic ring, join to beginning Chain 2 Fasten off and leave tail for sewing Mouth - Make 1 with black Make a magic ring Ch 1, 7SC all in magic ring, join to first SC Fasten off and leave tail for sewing Assembly The ‘right side’ of the ghost will be with the left bottom bump a bit longer than the right bump. Sew eyes (between rows 6 - 12) and mouth(between rows 16-19) onto ghost body. Lay 2 ‘arms’ on top of each other and SC around edges, leaving the bottom edge open (the tip of the arm will only have 2SC, the bottom edge will have 4SC) Leave a tail for sewing. The other ends can be stuffed into the arm Repeat for 2nd pair of arms. Take the 2 ghost bodies and lay them together (make sure the bumps are lining up as the bump to the left should be a bit longer than the bump on the right). Take the arms and put them in between the two layers of the ghost bodies. Sew on the arms in between the two layers - arrange them so the tips are pointing up. Now that the arms are sewed on, the last step will be to SC around the perimeter of the body. Attach yarn anywhere on the body to begin single crocheting around the edges of both layers. You will want to stop about ¾ of the way around to stuff lightly with poly-fil. Make sure to stuff a bit into the bottom bumps. When you get to an arm portion, simply SC crochet only on the top layer of the body and start SC through both layers again once you have passed the arm. Once you have SC all the way around, fasten off and weave in the tail end.

I love seeing all your works - please share with me on instagram @mariasbluecrayon or on my Facebook group - Maria's Blue Crayon Yarn Friends.

WEEK 6 - Christmas Granny Afghan CAL - Christmas Lights Applique Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome to Week 6 of the CAL!

I can't believe we are half way through this crochet along already! This week, we will have a very easy square. If you're behind - don't sweat it! Work on it when you can and enjoy the process. :)

This week we will be working up 8 granny squares and the Christmas Lights Applique.
All the patterns and video tutorials that you will need are below.

If you would like to purchase the complete pattern, you may do so here on Ravelry.

If you need to go back to the main page of the CAL - click here.

If you need to take another look at the materials list - click here.

Week 6
Make 4 granny squares in Linen
Make 4 granny squares in Cranberry
Make 4 Christmas Lights appliques
Weave in all ends!

Materials

Lion Brand Vanna's Choice in:
Kelly Green
Mustard
Scarlet
Colonial Blue
Black

G/4.0mm hook
Tapestry needle & Scissors

Pattern

Light bulb - make 4 - one of each of the following colors: kelly green, mustard, scarlet, colonial blue

Magic ring, Chain 1 and work the following into the ring: 3SC, DC, triple crochet, DC, 3SC, join to first SC
Fasten off and leave tail for sewing

Joining the lights - using black yarn


Chain 5, SC into either side of where you fastened off on a lightbulb, *chain 10, SC into either side of the join on another light bulb, repeat from * until all 4 light bulbs are joined, finish off by chaining 5 and fastening off. Leave tail for sewing onto granny square.

Video Tutorial

You may need to disable your ad-blocker if you are not able to access the video tutorial below. Or you may view the video here on YouTube.

PIN IT TO YOUR PINTEREST BOARDS!

Sharing in any way really helps my blog going and the free patterns coming - thank you!