Halloween Crochet Blanket Joining and Border Tutorial

This last week of the CAL for the Halloween Blanket, we will be crocheting our squares together and adding the border! Pat yourself on making it this far, we are almost finished!

Joining Granny Squares

If you have never joined granny square before - don't worry! I have a video tutorial for you on how I join my granny squares. I actually crochet them together vs. using a needle and yarn to sew them together. I find it easier, but that is just my preference!

This is the same join I used for the Christmas Afghan.  For this Halloween blanket, I joined with the same gray color as the squares. See the photo below to see the order I put them in as a reference.

You can join your squares however you'd like, there are many many ways to join granny squares! If this join is not for you, do a quick search on YouTube and you will find other ways that you may like better. :)

Border

The border is really easy to do. I made a simple border just to tie everything together.

Start by attaching gray yarn to a corner of your blanket after you have joined all the squares. Chain up 1 and make 5 half double crochets into the corner. Continue to half double crochet all the way around the blanket (1 half double crochet per stitch around). When you get to the corners make 5 half double crochets - this helps keep the blanket square. After you get all the way around, join to the first half double crochet.

Switch to green and repeat. Then switch to purple and repeat. And that's it!

Get creative with your borders! You can use as many colors as you'd like or switch it up with a different stitch! 

I can't wait to see all of your finished blankets! Please share with me on our Facebook group and/or Instagram.

How to Design a Crochet Cardigan and Write the Pattern in Multiple Sizes

Do you enjoy designing and making your own crochet patterns/items? Have you been wondering how to design a cardigan or where to start? In this post, I'm going to go over basic construction, sizing, and how to write up patterns for multiples sizes without actually having to make multiple sizes.

First, I'm going to tell you: I am not by any means a professional/expert crochet cardigan designer. The information below is what has worked for me and a starting point/guide that may help you in your endeavors in designing your own cardigan!

I have received many questions of how to design a cardigan. Mainly - where to start and sizing. Get ready, because I'm going to give you every bit of information I know.

I've only designed two cardigans thus far but they turned out looking like cardigans so I think I have just a bit of wisdom to share with you!

Basic Construction

This is where you want to start when you want to design a cardigan. Sketch out the basic construction you want it to be - which is basically 3 rectangles (two front panels and a back panel) plus your sleeves (which are more or less rectangles too).

Sleeves can be made in the round once you have your back and front panels seamed together or you can make them separately as rectangles, sew up the side, and then sew them onto the cardigan. I've done them both ways - I did find it easier to crochet in the round once the cardigan panels were seamed together, that way I could periodically try it on.

I encourage you to look through your wardrobe or go to the mall and look at the construction of cardigans. You will quickly see that they are (for the most part) basic shapes that you can replicate by crocheting.

Another thing to think about is, although the basic consruction/shapes are the same, there are different ways to make a cardigan. You can make it from the top down and vice versa. You can also make it from side to side, which I did for my Poppy cardigan that you can see here.

For my Heartland Cardigan, I made the back panel first and continued to crochet on the back panels for the front panels for less sewing. You can see the Heartland Cardigan here.

So you basically need to make rectangles or some sort of 4 sided shapes then seam them together.

Sizing

If you use any resource for making a cardigan you need to use The Craft Yarn Council.  They have a Standard Body Measurements/Sizing Chart. They also have a Fit Chart and Length Chart, which is very very very valuable.  I was totally unaware that I had to actually ADD inches to my measurements depending on what sort of fit I wanted (ex. loose, fitted, etc). Trust me, you will want to look at this chart.

Basically, these charts tell you all the measurements you need to make your cardigan for a certain size (XS-5X).  The specific measurements I look at when designing a cardigan is bust, cross back (shoulder to shoulder), sleeve length, upper arm, and armhole depth. 

Jot down the measurements (don't forget to add inches according to the Fit chart) for the size you want to make. I usually put the measurements where I sketched out your basic construction to have a clear visual image. If you're making multiple sizes, I recommend making multiple sketches and writing down all the measurements for each size.

Writing Pattern for Multiple Sizes

Once you have made a sample/cardigan for yourself and it fits well, you may want to write up the pattern for multiple sizes. 

You probably don't want to make multiple cardigans in multiple sizes to figure out the pattern and good news for you, you don't have to!

All you need is that handy dandy sizing chart and a gauge swatch in the stitch you will be using for the cardigan. If you aren't familiar with gauge swatches, I wrote a post about why it's important and how to check it here.

Once you've made a gauge swatch, jot down how many stitches/rows in the amount of area you measured. A typical gauge swatch is 4" x 4" but I typically measure 1"-2" for my gauge (you will see why in the next paragraph).

Typically I will work on the back panel of a cardigan first. Once I figure out how many stitches I have per inch, I will multiply that by what I want the width of the back panel to be. That will give me the number of stitches I need to start my back panel.

For example, let's say for every 1" there are 3 stitches and I want the width of the back panel to be 18". I would multiply 18 x 3 and that will give me the number of stitches I need across. Make sense?

To figure out how many rows for the length of the cardigan you would do the same thing. (length in inches you want the cardigan to be multiplied by how many rows per inch from your gauge swatch).

With that being said, you will also have to figure in the multiple of your stitch. Depending on what stitch you are using, you may have work in multiples of 2, 3, 4, etc.

Example: If you stitch is a multiple of 3 and you figure you need 29 stitches to make it your width, you would then just bump that number up to 30 to make is a multiple of 3.

Factors to Think About when Designing a Cardigan

Some things you want to think about when making a cardigan are:

• How long do I want it? 
• What type of fit? Loose? Oversized?
• What kind of stitch/texture do I want? Flowy? Lacy? Sturdy?
• How do I want the front panels to look? Tapered? Flowy?
• What type of edging do I want on the cardigan?
• Length of sleeves
• Do I want a solid color or color scheme?

These are just a few things you may want to think about to guide you when designing a cardigan.

How to Calculate Yardage for Finished Garment

If you are writing a pattern, you may want to list how many yards of yarn the person will need in order to make the size of their choosing. You can do this WITHOUT having to make the garment!

This blog gives you a step by step on what you need to do to calculate the amounts!

There is both a guesstimate way and a more calculated way. It's definitely a good tool to use!

Find the blog post on how to calculate yarn estimates for your projects.

Now that you have some basics on how to design a cardigan, I hope you take the plunge and give it a try! I would love to see what you come up with. Tag me on Instagram @mariasbluecrayon

Crochet Tip: How to Sew Appliques onto Crochet

Sewing appliques onto squares can be tricky if you want a clean look on the back.

When sewing crochet appliques onto blankets or other pieces of crochet, it is ideal to not see any of the sewing on the back.

This video tutorial will help you achieve that!

I have many blankets that consist of appliques being sewn onto granny squares. Find all the free patterns below!

Woodland Afghan

Ocean Afghan

Christmas Afghan

Llama and Cactus Afghan

Halloween Afghan

How to Sew Appliques onto Crochet

I have sewn on quite a few crochet appliques onto other pieces of crochet (specifically granny squares), so I'm going to show you how I sew them on!

I know, it can be intimidating and you probably aren't the best sewer (I'm not either), but this video will show you how I sew on my appliques!

You can either leave a clean backing (you won't see where you sewed the applique on from the back) or you can do a very simple sewing stitch if you don't mind it showing on the back!

For my blankets, I like to keep the backs of the granny squares clean but if I'm sewing something onto a hat where the inside won't be seen, I will stick to the more simple method!

Now that you've learned how to sew on appliques, check out some of my fun granny square blankets that uses this technique so you can start practicing!

Woodland Granny Square Afghan (free pattern here)

Ocean Granny Square Afghan (free pattern here)

Christmas Granny Square Afghan (free pattern here)

Llama and Cactus Granny Square Afghan (free pattern here)

Psst! I'm currently working on a Halloween themed afghan that will be a fun crochet along starting in July. Sign up for my newsletter so you don't miss out!

Crochet Tip: Join as You Go Method for Granny Squares

Joining granny squares can be very tedious and it can lead you to procrastinate putting all those squares together because there are so many of them! Don't be intimidated - this join as you go method will allow you to join your squares by crocheting after completing each square.

That means you will see progress of your blanket and how it's going to look!

I'm using this joining method for my Spring Afghan. You can find the free tutorial for it here.


If you're interested in learning about another different method of joining squares - you can view a photo and video tutorial here on how to single crochet the squares together.

Crochet Tip: How to Check Your Gauge and Why it's Important

Have you ever wondered why your crochet project isn't measuring up to the dimensions it should be? Have you ever made a slipper, top, or hat and the final product came out way too big or way too small?

If this has happened to you, you need to check your gauge!

What is gauge?

So I'm telling you that it's important to check your gauge, but you may be asking - what the heck is gauge? 

To give it to your straight - it's basically a measurement of your stitches. 

In a pattern, gauge is typically written something like this:

4" x 4" = 12 stitches x 8 rows in DC

That means when measuring a 4 inch by 4 inch square of your work/stitches in double crochets, there are 12 stitches across and 8 rows up and down.

*Typically it's 4"x4", but not always. 

How to Check Gauge

In order to check your gauge, you will have to make a 'gauge swatch'. It's another step in making your item, but it may be totally worth it if you're making something like a hat or top where measurements are crucial. 

Start with the recommended hook size and yarn weight in the pattern you are following and start chaining until you have about 6" (or two inches larger than what the gauge lists).  The gauge in the pattern should tell you what stitch. Make about 6" (or two inches more of what the gauge lists) worth of rows.

Now you have a small square to measure/check your gauge. You will need a ruler or measuring tape for this part. 

Simply, lay down your ruler/measuring tape and count the stitches across over a span of 4" (or the length of the gauge in the pattern). Do the same vertically for the rows. You will now have your gauge.

*You may want to measure from 2" - 5" as the first inch may not always be accurate on a measuring tape.

Looking at the photos above, the gauge would be 13 stitches x 7 rows in double crochet.

Next, you will compare that to the gauge in the pattern. If they match, you're all set!

If the number of stitches/rows are less than the gauge in the pattern, that means you have a tighter tension than the designer of the pattern and you will need to go up a hook size (or two, or three) in order to obtain the same gauge. Make another swatch with the next hook size up and check gauge again. Depending on your gauge, you may need to do this multiple times until your gauge matches.

If the number of stitches/rows are more than the gauge in the pattern, the means you have a looser tension than the designer of the pattern and you will need to go down a hook size (or two, or three) in order to obtain the same gauge. Make another swatch with the next hook size down and check gauge again. Depending on your gauge, you may need to do this multiple times until your gauge matches.

*Tips - Jot down the yarn weight, hook, and your gauge so you can use it for future reference for other patterns.

Also, if you find that you have the same gauge as a designer, take note of that as you most likely can get away with following that same designer's other patterns without checking your gauge.

It would also be a good idea to take note that a certain designer has a looser/tighter tension so you know that you will most likely have to go up/down a hook size when following that particular designer's patterns.

Why it's Important to Check Your Gauge

Confession: For the longest time, I never checked my gauge. Should I have? Yes, probably. I made tons of hats using patterns and sold them without checking my gauge.  I never had any complaints, but I was actually commended on the hats having some room for the kids so they could wear it another year.

Basically, I was making my hats a bit larger than they should have been. Win win for the kids and the parents getting more bang for their buck, but not a win if you're an adult and you'd like your hat to fit perfectly and not loosey goosey.

So that is the #1 reason you need to check your gauge. You may be making items too large or too small. It dwindles down to your tension - if you crochet loose (like me) your items may end up larger and if you crochet tightly, your items may end up smaller.

With that being said, it all depends on the pattern and who designed the pattern. If the designer of the pattern has a similar tension to yours, no worries. Likewise, if the designer has a very different tension than yours, your item most likely will not come out being the same dimensions. Make sense?

It's super important to check your gauge when making a garment/top because measurements determine if the garment will fit you correctly or not.

Something like a blanket or scarf may not be detrimental to check your gauge, but it wouldn't hurt if you'd like the exact dimensions that pattern designer obtained.

Now that you know how to check your gauge, don't be afraid to take the extra step to do so! It may save you lots of frogging in the future.

Crochet Candy Cane Stripe Border - Crochet Photo & Video Tutorial

The Candy Cane Stripe Border is a fun festive border for your crochet projects! The first thing that comes into my mind is that this would make a fun border for a Holiday themed project, but you can change up the colors and use it for any project.

Below I will have some photos to guide you through the striped border. There is also a video tutorial at the end of the post.

Notes:

For the striped border, do not crochet the chains too loosely. If you tend to crochet very loose, you may want to drop a hook size.

The striped border will involve going back and forth between the white and cranberry yarn, because of this the yarn may get very tangled. Make sure to untangle every so often.

When making single crochets, make sure the color you are working with goes in front of the other colored chain.

For the striped border you will need two different colors. In the photo tutorial I am using white and cranberry worsted weight yarns with an I hook.

Before you begin the striping border, it may be favorable to single crochet all around your project beforehand.

Step 1: Starting anywhere along the border, attach white yarn and chain up 4. (Photo 1)

Step 2: Attach cranberry color yarn in the next space and chain up 4. (Photo 2)

Step 3: Go back to the white yarn and single crochet into the next space after the cranberry, chain up 4. (Photo 3)

Step 4: Go back to the cranberry yarn, single crochet into the next space after the white, chain up 4. (Photo 4)
Continue to repeat steps 3 and 4, do this all the way around the perimeter of the afghan.
*You will make 4 stitches in each corner (2 white and 2 cranberry)*

To finish - slip stitch the white yarn underneath the first chain 4 in white, fasten off. (Photo 5)

Slip stitch with the cranberry yarn underneatht the first chain 4 in cranberry, fasten off. Weave in ends. (Photo 6)

How to Join Granny Squares - Single Crochet Method

Below you will find a photo tutorial as well as a video tutorial on how to join granny squares.

There are various ways of joining granny squares together and I have done a lot of techniques and methods.  There are methods that involve actually crocheting the pieces together and many methods of sewing them together with a needle and yarn.

My preferred method is crocheting the pieces together as I don't have to guess how much yarn I will need to sew up x amount of squares. With crocheting the squares together, I will simply work from the ball of yarn I have and snip the yarn when I'm done joining a particular row of squares. No guess work there.

The method I'm going to show you is a bit of a mix between the single crochet method and invisible seam method. The invisible seam method actually involves a yarn needle to complete, but I thought I could combine the single crochet method to make it easier.

This method makes a ridge along the backside of the squares, but the front of the squares lay very flat and gives it a nice clean look.

To join the squares, use the hook size you used for making the granny squares. If you tend to crochet very loose, you may want to go down a hook size to join.

Step 1: Hold two squares together the wrong facing out and the right sides facing each other.

Step 2: Find the corner chain closest to the side you want to work on first.

Step 3: Insert your hook through the chain on each of the squares. Attach yarn, chain up 1, and single crochet into the same space

Step 4: Single crochet into outer loops only - continue this all the way across. (This picture may be confusing as both squares are red and previous photos I have one red and one white.)

Continue to pick up pairs of squares and join them together, you do no have to fasten off until you finished a whole row of squares you would like to join together. 

Crochet Tip: Get Even Rows Without Counting

This crochet tip for keeping even rows will make you wonder why you didn't think of it before! Keeping even rows while crocheting WITHOUT counting is super easy to do with this simple tip.

Find the video below!

I'm going to assume when people learn how to crochet, they learn by chaining then making rows to create a blanket or dish cloth or some sort of retangular shape.

When I first learned how to crochet, I made a blanket (that I never finished).  I was a pro at increasing by accident and it made my blanket look uneven and wonky.

Not only was I 8 years old, but when you start crocheting it's difficult to see or even count the stitches because you just don't know what you're looking for.

My blanket looked a little like this picture, except is was bigger and made with baby pink and green/red ombre yarn. It was as hideous as it sounds. HA! But in my own defense, I was a kid.

So one way to get even rows is to go back and count the stitches, but if you're a beginner and are unsure of what you're even counting - this tip is for you.

Even if you're not a beginner, this may be a useful tip when making larger projects. I just started making a blanket in rows that is 200+ stitches across and I'm using this tip just so I'm sure I don't accidentally mess up along the way and have to take anything out.

So what's this tip? How can I get even rows and make sure I have the same amount of stitches in each row without counting?

Two words: STITCH MARKERS!

And you don't even have to go out and purchase stitch markers if you don't want to. You can use bobby pins, safety pins, or even small pieces of yarn in a different color.

Basically, you want to place a stitch marker in the first stitch in every row you start.

Once you have your chain and your first stitch of the row, place your stitch marker in that first stitch.
You can do this right away with your hook still in place, but if you are using a piece of yarn you will want to do another stitch then use your hook to place your piece of yarn in that first stitch.

Continue to make your stitches down the chain. It's easy to see where the last stitch will be in the chain.

Turn your work, chain up (however many you need for the stitch you are using) and make your first stitch.

Place you stitch marker in the first stitch as explained above. Continue to make your stitches along the row.

When you get to the end of the row, your first stitch marker will tell you where your last stitch will go! You don't have to second guess if it is the last stitch.

All you have to do now is keep moving the stitch marker up after each row and place it into the first stitch of each row! And ta-da! Even rows!

This may get tedious when making a small dishcloth, but it will ensure you will have even rows and takes less time than counting the stitches across!

Like I said in the beginning, I'm making a blanket that is 200+ single crochets in width, so this is a life saver for me so I don't ever have to second guess where my last stitch is!

I hope this is helpful to you!

**NOTE: When working in rows, I usually don't count the chain in the start of the row as a stitch. If you are counting your chain as a stitch, you will want to insert your stitch marker in the chain of each row.

Example: If you chain up 3 in the beginning of a row and are counting it as a double crochet, you will want to insert your stitch marker at the top of that chain 3 as your first stitch.

Best Crochet Stitches for Blankets

Crochet is endless in terms of stitches and patterns! I've rounded up my favorite stitches to be used in afghans, throws, and blankets.

Be sure to pin this post to your Pinterest boards for safe keeping!

1. Waffle Stitch

This crochet stitch gives you a waffle like texture. This stitch will give you a solid, warm, and squishy blanket! Everything you want in a cozy blanket to snuggle up in.

I made my own waffle stitch blanket with blocks of color for my son - I love it!

Get the tutorial here.

2. Granny Crochet Stitch

A classic granny stitch in rows. This stitch only consists of double crochet and chains!  Get the pattern here

3. Crossed Half Double Crochet Stitch

Perfect for a knitted look. Click here for the pattern.

4. Moss Stitch

Great for beginners! Video tutorial here

5. C2C Stitch

I love love the C2C stitch! In this tutorial, I show you how to use half double crochets (versus the double crochets) using the C2C stitch technique. I find using the half double crochets gives you less gaps/holes in the blanket which makes it warmer!

Watch the video tutorial here

6. Shell stitch

Perfect for a delicate feel! Check out the tutorial here.

7. Basket Weave Stitch

This makes a great thick blanket for maximum cuddles! Video and written tutorial here.

8. Spider Stitch

I made a big blanket with the spider stitch and it's wonderful! It's an easy stitch and gives such a pretty texture.

Get the tutorial here.

9. Pebble Stitch

This photo tutorial shows you how to make this pretty stitch.

10. Bobbles

Bobbles are such a fun texture in crochet! In this tutorial, I show you how to alternate bobble and double crochet rows to make a large granny square - video tutorial plus written pattern included!

Get the tutorial here.

What stitch will you choose? And which one's have you tried already?